Hedi Slimane finally crashed the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent after carefully burning down the archives with respect last season. And along with that, he succeded in two manners: one having us editors start our papers with no choice but his name, two killing the historical idea of a singular Parisian Woman.
Conservatives will of course enrage that their iconic French House of Fashion has finally embraced a globalized universe of inspirations instead of focusing on a proud national ideal. The fact that this new collection repositions the style of Saint Laurent closer to classics of brit punk Vivienne Westwood and stares into the imaginations of contemporary glam-trash authors like Breat Easton Ellis means that Saint Laurent is now a real worldwide brand with connections to pop culture in a way only top competitor Chanel has ventured in earlier.
But what worries us most is not these new grunge inspirations. We always knew that could be expected with Rock and Roll Pope Hedi Slimane.
What really worries us is the manifesto behind the attitude and styling the models showed on stage. Disfigured and washed out by a dark and dull make-up, they look like venturing back from a night of abuse. Even Cara Delevingne looked incredibly hungover. Although we’re not patronizers on contemporary morals, how should parents look at this show? A blunt statement about the irresponsible life of their children? A warning call to attention for a depressed youth?
As fashion is concerned, we’re pretty amazed at how darkest designers like Rick Owens might (or not) feel challenged by this unsubtle but smart posture. Times are dark, and designers work their way either through it or around it. The truth is now alight: Hedi Slimane drove right through them on a blazing chopper.