In a vibrant essay, Robin Givhan explains that the good old times of fashion blogging are over.
Basically, Robin Givhan gives us a brilliant explanation of the history of digital fashion; how bloggers changed the rules and how editors had to adapt.
The core of the demonstration is to say that as media fought back and that it’s more complicated for newcomers to take the lead, the ecosystem is not as it used to be. Even worse: fashion bloggers will no longer be a sort of bunch of guerilleros against the system: they’ve become the system.
Part of that op-ed is right: you hardly find an influential fashion blogger without an agent. You need to negotiate fees with talent agencies for a lot of collaborations with brands; it’s true that if you start from scratch, you really need to invest a lot of time to emerge.
But still, I do believe that the golden era is still up and coming.
First, most of the top style bloggers were absolutely anonymous 2 years ago; because now Brazilian or Aussie bloggers are sky-rocketing, there are new faces who change the deal. In this ever-changing fashion world, there’s no place for conservatism: there might be a dozen of blogging institution, but the vast majority of interesting bloggers are fresh, impassioned, irreverent people. And it’s worth mentioning it.
Then, if you look at niche communities, new phenomenons are rising. I think about the Mipsterz which are only now discussed in traditional media. They were absolutely non-existing last year, and obvious today.
Subcultures invent new codes on a daily basis; fashion is a gigantic transformer of our cultural expectations; for that, the Golden Era is just starting.