Remember when Suzy Menkes was lecturing us on the fact that fashion bloggers were strange animals in a strange fashion circus? And that we were bringing it down?
LAUGHING OUT LOUD.
Because you really had to see the 100 ultra-VIPs, who were invited to see John Galliano’s come back in London for (or through shall we say!?) Maison Martin Margiela. Most of them were obviously already present when John Galliano was found guilty of anti-Semitic Paris rants few years ago. Once fired by Dior, they did not hesitate to shoot again on this “anti-Semetic drunk”.
That was the spirit of the fashion entre soi, up until Anna Wintour decided that she had so much power that she could revert any fashion journalist mind in a minute. We’re not talking champagne thus, but really influence. And fear. Thanks to her, John Galliano was then re-accepted among a selected bunch of fashionistas. And in a certain way, imposed in the media timeline. House of Cards is not very far…Aye aye! The fact is that the circus might have accepted this come-back…but that the lion is still pacing up like a lion in a cage.
Forgiving does not mean breaking creative knees
We were personally expecting a lot from John Galliano: because he made us dream a lot with his theatrical shows; in 2000s, Galliano had already understood that fashion is not about catwalk but about entertainment. And that fashion has a very important role to play at the society level. Something highly important as he was playing his game during super models’ era.
Galliano the iconoclast did not hesitate to compare a dress made of newsprint with beggars, in an ultra cheeky way ”Some of these people are like impresarios, their coats worn over their shoulders and their hats worn at a certain angle. It’s fantastic” and to mock Parisian bourgeois of the 20s and 30s who were trying to dress like them. Hipster-bashing was born with the kid of Gibraltar.
So what remains from this irreverence which made him flirt with the worst? Let’s face it: we’re not convinced. The proof is that every single article or report about this collection talk about…the business context in which Maison Martin Margiela (renamed Maison Margiela between! RIP Martin!) instead of analyzing the pieces. The collection is neither Galliano, neither Margiela. It’s a conservative balance. Do we need that in fashion at the moment? After a super-flat LC:M, we wonder.
We need to mention – again – this good old Kanye West. Maison Margiela did an amazing collaboration with the “5th Element” of the new fashion loop of influence for his Tour:
Whereas it’s no longer just a trend to repeat that since 2011, fashion appears in the street, then street feeds fashion design, it’s like if the Fashion Circus Establishment still prefers to focus on fallen faces of another century than highlighting current outsiders. Or maybe they just don’t get them.
Print press is at the very core of this fashion embargo: pop culture is no longer just a gimmick but the essence of fashion and design.