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Anthony Vaccarello (photo: iD)

“Fast and Furious Fashion” – the ascension of Anthony Vaccarello

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When Saint Laurent Paris announced the introduction of Anthony Vaccarello as the new Creative Director of the brand following Hedi Slimane’s exit, my curiosity was piqued by a friend’s anecdote on Facebook.

Victoria, a former “ticket girl” at Lambert & Associates – a leading fashion office and trends spotter agency with clients such as Neiman Marcus or Bergdorf Goodman, commented on the nomination with a throwback to 2013.

“And then you remember yourself calling this guy a few years ago and hear him explain as calmly as possible that no he didn’t get my messages and has no idea what urgent matter I am talking about because he is alone and going crazy.”

The urgent matter was a seating issue for his upcoming show. As Victoria explained, the office scouts promising designers such as Vaccarello in 2013 and arranges for them to be seen by influential buyers. The other way around, department stores get an insightful update on what is going to break through in creativity and trends. Among the missions coordinated by the agency is the “ticket run”. Victoria was in charge of arranging seating plans for the show, and as one would expect, that is the most political and sensitive part of the Fashion Week Circus. Who gets front row? Who is going to cancel attendance to go grab a McDonald’s getaway? Who may be offended by this sudden change of plans?

Victoria’s comment reveals how fast and furious the fashion world can be. The big picture being within 3 years, a talented designer went from the struggles of independent label development to the pressure of a massive house’s legacy. In the details of the story, we can also witness a breathtaking disproportion between the investment necessary for a young designer label to develop (creative input, production management, PR support, sales pressure) and the actual scale of loneliness that one can experience.

With a whole industry looking at his work since 2010 and support provided, Anthony Vaccarello still felt alone at the helm of his label, hours before his shows. Will this experience help him coordinate the machinery that is Saint Laurent Paris?

Looking back at Hedi Slimane’s very specific habits as a director, we can only ask ourselves if his secret wasn’t that he mastered the loneliness of the designer so that it drove the brand forward.

While we wish Anthony Vaccarello all the success deserved at the helm of Saint Laurent Paris, we can’t help but be wary of the ongoing furiousness of designer’s life. At every level of the industry, it seems that they need more support, and not only from ticket girls.


Christopher Kane SS15

Why London is the Capital of Menswear

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These past few years have seen the rise to glory of a long-underestimated and underserved market: Menswear. With a boost given by the street culture generation now on the chase for looks and design, it’s never been more exciting to be a man in fashion.

But there is a tip to the spear and it is called London (UK).

While the British Fashion Council once again sets up a platform for creativity and business called London Collections: Men – bringing together names including Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane, Alexander McQueen, JW Anderson, Katie Eary, Tom Ford, Moschino, YMC, Topman and Lyle & Scott; one can not be surprised when this is the proud land of Paul Smith and the mean streets of modern Tailoring.

Furthermore, who could doubt menswear would find its energy on a market where online concept-stores such as Oki-Ni, LN-CC or Endclothing have thrived in the past few years.

London like no other place is encompassing everything that inspires the modern man: a desire for excentricity mixed with extremely codified formality. The geek generation finds its closet ready for a revolution – fashion can be optimized for efficiency with creativity. Rest of the world, behold. The times of Daddy’s preppy or douchey style is over.

Christopher Kane SS15
Christopher Kane SS15
simongao 2

SIMONGAO: “It’s all about confidence, all about the language you want to tell to people”

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Chinese designer Simon Gao was definitely one of the biggest sensations this year at London Fashion Week AW14. The show was packed and it was trending in social networks. SIMONGAO won the Mercedes-Benz China Young Fashion Award, 2013, which is one of the reasons why we had a chance to attend his show in London.

His collection shows a very “zen” attitude: colors are mostly playing with shades of greys, whites and blacks, with blue or brown fantasies. SIMONGAO played in a very subtle way with materials: draping and folding embrace dresses; belts and accessories might refer to a modern Geisha; this oriental inheritance matches with contemporary “street” influences we can see in London or NYC: models were walking with New Balance sneakers.

“I’ve done some research for different civilizations. I mixed them together to make Urban Chic.”

It was basically the best of Opening Ceremony machine without a too aggressive fuss: Beyoncé was not in the air (vs all the other shows I’ve attended) and Simon Gao was suggesting a more balanced vision of “women”.

“I want SIMONGAO girls to do sports, to experience different lives, to meet different cultures, to eat different foods, and run an optimistic attitude for life. It’s all about confidence, all about the language you want to tell to people.”

We had a chance to catch up backstage with the rising talent; discover more about Simon Gao now:


Film by Flavie Trichet Lespagnol
Photos by Lilzeon

erdem catwalk

London Fashion Week AW14 – Under the Spotlight

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It’s the fashion event that you must pencil into your calendar – of course it’s London Fashion Week. From Somerset House to Kensington Gardens, the streets were filled with fashion bloggers, journalists, socialites and the press who were all fortunate enough to get the first peek at the latest collections – I happened to be one of those lucky few!

On Monday, I set off to the beautiful Somerset House and saw the latest line by M&S who are aiming to bring out the ‘Best of British’. The scene was a simple, minimalist background with a ladder, chair and desk – an unusual set, but it did bring out the best of its 60’s-esque bold coloured swing coats and shift dresses.


I later went to a dim lit, carpeted car park behind Selfridges to see the latest line by Erdem, which was my favourite of the day. Erdem illustrated a mix of contrasting textures such as patent leather on crochet with subdued splashes of gold, grey and scarlet. To put it simply like The Fash Pack have quoted, it was ‘the type of collection that dreams are made of.’  With a revamped version of Heart of Glass by Blondie, the scene was buzzing with an edgy femininity. Simply amazing.


With the spotlights shining on their scraped-back hair, David Koma was the final show of the day. His collection highlighted bold purples and dark greys, with the clothes structured in sharp cuts and finishes. Again, it was a very minimalist, bright lighted scene to emphasise what Koma had to display.

david koma

There is nothing quite like being a part of the camera flashes and loud voices. David Koma and M&S both displayed lovely collections, but the aura was exactly how I imagined a fashion show to be, therefore I wasn’t taken aback. However, Erdem was the stand-out as its unpretentious setting was revamped into an electrifying setting – it was just a shame that it was over so quickly.

jourdan dunn topshop unique aw14

TOPSHOP Unique AW14: the tomboy wanting to be pretty

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Oops, Topshop did it again. Yesterday, the Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall was hosting another interesting performance of the 50 years old brand. And the design of the show is very similar to the essence of TOPSHOP: few rows downstairs with happy few (including me haha) and upstairs, a crowd of fans with smartphones ready to shoot, basically on a bridge.

The collection is going to work: a mix of tailoring fabrics and mohair; a lot of street influence (MIA was attending the show) and less an attempt to copy big designers (last year, some observers mentioned the fact that the catwalk presented a collection which was not really what Topshop is about: this year, this “mistake” is not here). Tattoo motifs try to challenge flowers; and the quality of materials is definitely here.

JiHye Park for TOPSHOP

The soundtrack was all about female power. Beyoncé’s very own who runs the world? GIRLS  was of course buzzing (as usual). As Topshop declared, this season is all about the girl (…) the soft girl wanting to be tough, the tomboy wanting to be pretty.

Oversize clothes were not the only originality: more formal suits were in the show but with a twist of blueish motifs.


Y-3 adidas

Y-3 Autumn/Winter 2014-15: superheroes challenge Yves Saint Laurent

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‘Ten years ago, together with adidas we created something that did not exist before and completely projected the future. My desire was and is to make sportswear elegant and chic. adidas is a very personal inspiration to me … it enriches my creative life.’ – Yohji Yamamoto, 2011

True fact; as adidas was the very first to embrace hip hop, they were also the very first to understand how sportswear should become a tremendous part of our modern lifestyles.
The new collection, presented during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, is another exemplary set of art. The topic is sort of déjà vu “Superheroes might be the world’s only remaining hope”. But the way it’s executed is outstanding.

“Men’s and women’s pieces were presented together in a range of retro-tinged primary colors. Clothes emphasized functionality and modularity to underscore Y-3’s commitment to the vision of sport-style. Stunningly revealed in an epic black and white setting with a neon light backdrop, models stalked the runway to superhero music themes and were watched by a front-row crowd including music icon Kanye West, Parisian socialites Louise Monot, Caroline Proust and Louis-Marie de Castelbajac, German actor Clemens Schick as well as adidas athletes Gwladys Épangue (Olympian/Taekwondo), Laura Flessel-Colovic (Olympian/Fencing) and Jimmy Vicaut (Sprinter)”.

As in popular mangas, the collection plays with utopia and dystopia; silhouettes might become monsters, drapes and black pattern play with the devils. A bit like if Spiderman was part of Yves Saint Laurent.

The collection is an hommage to the couturiers of he 60’s. I wanted to infuse a this spirit into it. I was also thinking of super heroes and the kind of clothes they wear. Cut for an active and fighting life style, so I brought these two worlds together.” Yohji Yamamoto

And we love it.

Credit: Kim BTN, Phan Võ

Elle Fashion Show SS14 (Vietnam)

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Elle Magazine is an institution everywhere it has settled in the world. Thanks to that status, the publication is now setting new standards of creativity in a new and unexplored market: Vietnam. Following the recent launch of a new web platform, the first media with a decent design (check these major news hubs for a bloodtearing benchmark) has raised the bar of its pionneering Fashion Shows.

Designers with inspirations connecting them to an exciting worldwide new turn in fashion (including hints to Givenchy, Balenciaga, Alexander Wang and Mary Katrantzou) showcased their work under a reversed garden, through sets of electro-pop and even more modern: trap music.

While some professionals are only starting to complain about indistinct trends on the street and lack of general fashion culture, this event showed that things were happening in Vietnam, and as we’re currently observing from the middle of there, we can tell you this: they’re happening fast.

Prabal Gurung 4

Runway Report #1 : New York

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Back to school. Back to super cool.

Check out that girl, dude. She’s a maniac.

She’s been dating Sk8er Boy since way back.

Can’t believe it. He’s a total douche.

Every ball he drops and swoosh!


Check out that girl, dude. She’s ice cold.

Seriously, such a do ‘s you’re told.

She’s sharp though,

Why, I don’t really know,


Check out that girl, dude. She’s a geek.

But somehow she’s like, magnifique!

I want her to take me into the future,

I want her to tell me about The Rapture,

[3.1 Phillip Lim]

Check out this girl, dude. She’s a lady, like.

Can’t take my eyes off of her, yikes!

Like a sunburn, she tears me apart,

Like a double-tap, what a gunshot.


Check out this girl, dude. She’s a hippie.

Wouldn’t date me and my fixie.

She lives in a strawberry field,

Riding the rainbow and chill.


Check out that girl, dude. She’s a traveller.

Worlds apart, she walks the line.

Far away, alone she wanders,

Home alone, she wonders away.


Check out this girl, dude. She’s the new girl.

She’s the face of the century.

She’s the silhouette of envy.

She’s the plot of our story.

She’s the mind of the city.