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The Golden Era of fashion is not over

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In a vibrant essay, Robin Givhan explains that the good old times of fashion blogging are over.

Basically, Robin Givhan gives us a brilliant explanation of the history of digital fashion; how bloggers changed the rules and how editors had to adapt.

The core of the demonstration is to say that as media fought back and that it’s more complicated for newcomers to take the lead, the ecosystem is not as it used to be. Even worse: fashion bloggers will no longer be a sort of bunch of guerilleros against the system: they’ve become the system.

Part of that op-ed is right: you hardly find an influential fashion blogger without an agent. You need to negotiate fees with talent agencies for a lot of collaborations with brands; it’s true that if you start from scratch, you really need to invest a lot of time to emerge.

But still, I do believe that the golden era is still up and coming.

First, most of the top style bloggers were absolutely anonymous 2 years ago; because now Brazilian or Aussie bloggers are sky-rocketing, there are new faces who change the deal. In this ever-changing fashion world, there’s no place for conservatism: there might be a dozen of blogging institution, but the vast majority of interesting bloggers are fresh, impassioned, irreverent people. And it’s worth mentioning it.

Then, if you look at niche communities, new phenomenons are rising. I think about the Mipsterz which are only now discussed in traditional media. They were absolutely non-existing last year, and obvious today.

Subcultures invent new codes on a daily basis; fashion is a gigantic transformer of our cultural expectations; for that, the Golden Era is just starting.

 

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When did Miley become more real than a Fashion Blogger?

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For the sake of our ecosystem we had to cry this out. Our darlings and colleagues from the fashion blogosphere have gone too far. We’re not talking about these buffoons roaming the sidewalks during Fashion Week, but really about those delicate creatures that made boys and girls just like us dream of an eternally and integrally beautiful street, populated with muses and characters.

But then Kristina Bazan just released her new version of KAYTURE. As the pinnacle of her later trajectory, it showcases the most surreal shots of a young talented blogger ever. We’re feeling the brands and all these “amazing projects” they’ve submitted to her have alienated the idea of what we used to love about K: a sophisticated spontaneity. She embodied how cool yet charming and level-headed one person could be when it came to fashion perception.

Kayture Collaboration with Louis Vuitton

Now she looks more plastic than any over-the-top luxury campaign. Fake glows and shopped auras have covered the homepage. Thank you Louis V.

And then we watched Miley Cyrus’ music videos again. And somehow it felt more real. Proof that posterizing an icon is a delicate art that even the greatest brands on Earth still have to master.

 

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Why fashion needs poetry (and why poetry now needs fashion)

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There are pains, people in dismiss, people running away and people trying to get into.

There are wars, some vain, some right; but can wars really act with discernment?

Among these liquid dreams and nightmares, there are words, you, me, in the wagon. There are our pens and our tunes; our bags full of what we’ll get from where we go; our cameras which can never fully satisfy our memory cards.

But our souls.

There are colors and dresses; and your dress that you wore this special day.

Fashion needs poetry; rare are the bloggers who achieve the body & mind reconciliation.

But we need this escape in fashion; fashion is not about push newsletters nor sales. It’s not about actually buying but accessing “something”. In fashion, we create “stuff”.

In poetry, we need to cast spells to our readers; to face him, to disturb or to bring forward. Or sometimes we just want no reaction.

These lines are filled with fashion, style, descriptions of what characters wear.

Or what they’d like to wear.

The 2 sides of the world are not enemies. They are very similar. If deep thoughts exists, it’s because we also inhabit a superficial street called Earth.

 

For all the guys and boys who like to read and stare; again, open blogs like Michelle Lara Lin’s one: The Stranger.

 

 

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Agents?

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There was a great article in the NY Times, which has peen re-tweeted by our favorite Belgian fashionista Sophie, about the fact that more and more fashion bloggers need agents to manage their “careers”.

“Indeed, seemingly every fashion brand is working with bloggers these days, including mainstream brands like the Gap (which featured the avant-garde-leaning Susie Bubble in a campaign), DKNY (which hired the photo blogger Jamie Beck to shoot behind the scenes at its recent runway show) and Sunglass Hut (which held a heavily promoted contest for a full-time blogger).

But deciding which opportunities to accept can be tricky for bloggers, who risk overexposure and being seen as a corporate shill. A blogger’s influence is derived from independence.”

It’s true that as fashion blogging has become to a certain extent a real business issue, there’s a need to shape more professional processes. And the more you’re visible, the more it requires some times and some skills to properly manage your daily passion / work. For instance, for this specific blog, we’ve been diving into diverse new specs:

– HTML basic knowledge: yeah, it’s not 100% easy to understand how to customize your favorite WordPress

– Public Relations: you need to establish solid rules with brands and stakeholders. And yes, it’s a job

– Art Direction: we always ask for bespoke approach, we therefore need to be sharp enough to implement creative projects that suit our partners

– Promotion: once you’re proud of a post, well, you need to engage some publics who might be interested in it…otherwise, well…

– fun management: in spite of all this stuff, you need to keep pleasure in writing hey!

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