We sometimes have digital crushes…And I’m going to be honest: the first tweet we’ve sent to Kira Aderne from Kira Fashion was: “btw you have an AMAZING style! do you sometimes come to London? we could arrange a shooting!!!“. Brazilian fashion scene is on the rise.
When fashion meets personal journeys, we can bet that you’re going to become addicted to Kira daily stories.
When did you start blogging and why?
I started blogging about 6 years ago! A long way…and my main reason is still the same until today: helping me in elaborating my fashion choices and sharing the things I love.
You often try to mix cultural scenes (dancers, urban exploration) to fashion: how do you prepare your shootings?
Everything happens almost unplanned. It’s funny because I don’t prepare much. Although, when I set up an outfit, I try to think of a good location for the photos. However, most of the time, I decide it in the car on my way to the photoshoot.
What are the blogs you like to read?
I love to read bloggers who remain true to themselves through the years. That’s why I love Karla’s Closet (karlascloset.com) from the US, one of the first blogs I discovered! And Zebra Trash (zebratrash.com) from the North of Brazil!
Fashion can change the world: what do you think about that?
I bet it’s so right! It gives an impressive sense of community in gathering through the same passions and desires. It doesn’t matter if you live in Brazilor in Japan, we’re all on the same page! It makes the world smaller and consequently, it gets us closer.
What do you expect from fashion brands?
I expect that, day after day, we get closer. After all, we have the same goals. Brands need customers and customers want brands. And blogs, working with full transparency, can make this relationship stronger.
Brazil: if we want to better get a sense of what’s going on there, where shall we go (both in real life and online)?
We’re a huge country and a very diverse one. To know a bit of our land and our people, you should come at least for 4 different places: São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Recifee Manaus(from Southeast to the North of Brazil). Doing that, you can have a taste of our culture and our people. Online, visit: ofthemoda.com.
Hedi Slimane finally crashed the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent after carefully burning down the archives with respect last season. And along with that, he succeded in two manners: one having us editors start our papers with no choice but his name, two killing the historical idea of a singular Parisian Woman.
Conservatives will of course enrage that their iconic French House of Fashion has finally embraced a globalized universe of inspirations instead of focusing on a proud national ideal. The fact that this new collection repositions the style of Saint Laurent closer to classics of brit punk Vivienne Westwood and stares into the imaginations of contemporary glam-trash authors like Breat Easton Ellis means that Saint Laurent is now a real worldwide brand with connections to pop culture in a way only top competitor Chanel has ventured in earlier.
Saint Laurent W13
But what worries us most is not these new grunge inspirations. We always knew that could be expected with Rock and Roll Pope Hedi Slimane.
What really worries us is the manifesto behind the attitude and styling the models showed on stage. Disfigured and washed out by a dark and dull make-up, they look like venturing back from a night of abuse. Even Cara Delevingne looked incredibly hungover. Although we’re not patronizers on contemporary morals, how should parents look at this show? A blunt statement about the irresponsible life of their children? A warning call to attention for a depressed youth?
As fashion is concerned, we’re pretty amazed at how darkest designers like Rick Owens might (or not) feel challenged by this unsubtle but smart posture. Times are dark, and designers work their way either through it or around it. The truth is now alight: Hedi Slimane drove right through them on a blazing chopper.
Adidas has just released their new 2013 global campaign. A-Trak and So Me clash talents and sample lives to bring in a new style for adidas Originals. It’s basically an exciting collision of art and style. This cultural accelerator let people create untypical digital mash ups, where artists become the raw material of outfits selection.
It’s interesting to see that Adidas had already revealed a local adaptation of this campaign with Kang Dong Won last January (a popular Korean & Japanese actor & slasher).
Let’s face it: Harvey Nichols remains a sort of mystery for any foreigner living in London. Because the luxury store is pretty confusing: you know what you’ll get at Harrod’s: a mix of premium classic brands, great food and gorgeous Egyptian escalator; you also know what you’ll get at Westfield: an American mall for classic fashion & luxury brands; you also already know you’re going to love Selfridges (not only because we’ve watched Mr Selfridge…). But when it comes to Harvey Nichols, you can hesitate between the impression to attend a masterpiece of British genius or the worst of mass consumerism.
Harvey Nichols had a long track-record of provocative ads. For instance, The Harvey Nichols Walk of Shame “which promised to make every girl’s worst nightmare a stylish one has been cleared of sexism by the Advertising Standards Authority”. To be fair, my first reaction as a male fashion blogger was to dramatically laugh. Why? Because it seems SO close to what I experience in London after 10pm on Friday night: girls who used to be beautiful hours earlier were suddenly wasted, losing any sort of glamor.
But when I watched the ad again, I suddenly felt sorry both for the girls and also for Harvey Nichols: most of their consumers are not thin preppy ladies but British ones. And the British girls are not all skinny; making fun of only fat girls in this ad was a business misconception. And when you condemn a specific population, you expect a new inspiring role-models. But at the end of this film, you have a very conservative proposal: a lady wearing a chic dress going back home, saying hello to the postman (so it means that the girl is probably not working so you can wonder how she got this fabulous property). As a modern man, I hate this cliché conception of womanhood. And as a citizen, I wonder if Harvey Nichols realizes what modern women’s daily lives are.
Harvey Nichols has just released a new campaign, presenting adorable dogs in premium it bags. It’s called “the new breed“. As Phong Lulu reports, “you’ll get special “doggy-bag” packaging with every purchase at the Knightsbridge flagship“. And again, I’m confused; the only girls and boys I’ve seen wearing pets in their bags were either very strong stereotypes of Cliché or nice grand-mothers. It could have been funny, but the manifesto written by Paula Reed, Harvey Nichols Fashion Director, is not really offbeat:
“Between the superstars that dazzle in the fashion firmament, there is a galaxy of twinkling gems…these innovators, conceptualists, shining talents and early adopters all features on the pages to follow…”
So it’s not ironic, but a truly engaging brand manifesto to highlight the “next generation”.
Harvey Nichols: you need a new art direction (or at least to talk internally about what you want to say to us, your consumers).
Lacoste has just released an interesting platform called Lacoste Celebrating Eighty. You can play to “Match Point”, “Croco Ball”, “Galactic Racket” and “Twin Polos”. A very funny move from Lacoste into Space Invaders, Pong, or Pacman references.
Nina Gosse is our March Cover Girl. She’s currently studying law at Cambridge, but is also very involved in editorial & fashion projects. When meaning meets a nice smile, well, we can say we’re happy to have such interesting readers.
Hi Nina; what’s the typical day of a hard working student slash fashionista slah writer?
My day is necessarily active, connected, including one tea (minimum), some law, some art, some doubts and at least one pleasure (whatsoever) to hold up.
France vs Great Britain: who wins?
I love French exigency, our taste, our values. When it comes to fashion, our crafty nonchalance and our natural type are very particular. In the UK, I love eccentricity and their dandys, like Oscar Wilde. And I love the fact that their shopkeepers love their jobs…I don’t like porridge thus.
“Fashion can change the world”. Do you agree?
No, it’d be too easy. Fashion can make life funnier, sweeter, nicer. Fashion can help us in seducing, loving, affirming ourselves, feeling good; fashion is everything but superficial, or it’s a necessary superficiality.
Who have you recently met that really matters?
I dreamed bout spending an evening with Ernets & Zelda, it was fab’. I would have loved to attend the Roaring Twenties. But in real life…Well, I’ve met an art dealer (he’s the guy I’m talking about in my last interview for CRUMB) and a specialized lawyer (Intellectual property, my field of work) who convinced me again that I love what I do.
What’s your perfect outfit?
To feel good AND elegant. My favorite outfits (including the ones I haven’t got yet) are the ones offered by people who love (my grand-mother’s jewels matter the most).
What can we wish you?
Some successes, hyper-activity (but also a bit of rest), happiness and some small dramas too (otherwise life’s not funny).
Otherwise, I have some temporary projects: fashion photography, editorials and writings (my most personal project is on 3petitspointsmagasine.fr). My visual signature comes from the Nanas d’paname, some of them are real friends now!
Guillaume Henry has been raising constant praise from both experts and fashion addicts for a couple of seasons now. What we loved in this latest runway show is that while most coolifying brands (Kenzo we’re looking at you) are mimicking the graphical taste of young hipsters for exotic fauna (Urban Outfitters issued a range of OhhDeer products last season), Carven has dived into the possibility of elegance while printing full-sized animal patterns. So here we bring to you… the Bambi coat.
Jeanne Damas, a growing phenomenon in the fashion “below the line” Parisian scene, is the muse of diverse French gang: Olivier Zahm and Purple, Costume National among others. She’s the heroin of this short film, directed by Mary Clerté. Art Deco spirit, with a twist of minimal modernity following the beasts of Valley’s single “Hounds”, this is a nice celebration of Pauline Moynat “the only female trunk-maker in Paris‘.
When we asked on Facebook who we should definitely interview when it comes to Luxury, our friends mentioned Luxury Activist. And it’s true that we like their society analysis and this idea that luxury brands don’t belong to an exclusionary world anymore. They’re part of a culture, of a country.
We had a chance to ask few questions to José Amorim, born in Brazil but now based in Switzerland. And this guy really knows his stuff.
Your blog is called “Luxury Activist“: luxury has become a left-wing affair?
Not really It came from 2 ideas. The first one was based on the fact that it is important to highlight the know-how behind the “glamorous glitters” of luxury and fashion.
If people understand better about the hard and qualitative work behind a dress, a watch or a skincare product, they would appreciate it even more. The high value is not in the price, but in the hours spent by fantastic people to produce the best and the unique.
Then, the second idea is that I intensively fight to rise the quality of online news. Online press and blogs were tremendously criticized over the years about the quality of their work. Of course not everything is qualitative but we are a few people to invest our passion and knowledge (most of the good blogs are done by experts) to bring interesting discussions that you do not see much in what we call traditional press.
What are your biggest achievements so far as a luxury & fashion blogger?
To have obtained my Press Card based only on the quality of my work. My webzine is officially affiliated to the New and Electronic Media section at the Swiss Journalist association. It shows how modern this country is.
In terms of work, I was the first one to display The first Nicola Formichetti’s fashion show for Mugler on Youtube when Lady Gaga presented the “Born this way” single.
After 150,000 views in 2 days I got kicked out by Youtube for “third parties copyrights”…
Otherwise I am quite proud to talk about fashion brands that have not so much visibility in the press like Damir Doma, Junko Shimada, Martin Grant or historical Mariano Fortuny.
Switzerland is a hot spot for luxury and also digital (net à porter etc.): as you’re also Brazilian, how would you define the Swiss scene vs the Brazilian one?
Switzerland and Brazil are very specific countries. Brazil has a tremendous creativity and endless resources in many ways. Sometimes the country struggles on the fact that Fashion business is in Sâo Paulo but Glamour is in Rio de Janeiro. I love the fact that Brazilians have a strong creativity on mixing things and we love to be “trendy” and fashion is a big topic.
Blogs I love in Brazil are kirafashion.com.br (a real discovery) or garotasestupidas.com.
In Switzerland it is different. Not so many Fashion/Luxury blogs compared to France or even the UK. But a lot of strong opinions online. Bloggers generally are more interested in high-tech or Politics but we can find some interesting Fashion blogs. Big “friendly fight” between Zürich and Geneva and it is hard to be at both places. An interesting fact though about fashion blogs, they love make-up and nail art, more than anywhere else!
I would highlight 2 blogs I love a lot: sandrascloset.com and 10tubes.net.
If we want to better know the fashion & luxury scene in Switzerland, where shall we go and which sites shall we visit?
There is one Department store in Zürich doing a great work on Fashion, it is called Jelmoli. They call themselves “The House of Brands” and they invest a lot in events like fashion shows and they have very interesting exclusive brands.
You can check them on their website. They have a blog section with all the hits of the moment. If you visit Switzerland, you need to visit 2 streets for fashion and luxury: The Bahnhofstrasse in Zürich and Rue du Rhône in Geneva.
What can we wish you?
To keep my freedom and to collaborate more and more with interesting people. The more we share… the better!