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© Lilzeon, the boulevardiers, Hit Bag
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Huishan Zhang: the designer to watch in the coming months

We had a chance to discover the new collection of Huishan Zhang at Somerset House during Fashion Week. Huishan Zhang is a very followed creator these days as he’s one of the representative of the new Made in China. Born in Qingdao, China. Huishan is a fellow of Central Saint Martins. He worked for a year at Dior, but he directly launched his own label as he was a student.

© LF / ViewsCo / Hit Bag

The collection demonstrated a fusion between Asian influences in the forms of the outfits, meeting a very European 60s preppy attitude. But instead of diving into BCBG feelings, the designer offered a twist of impertinence: an asymmetrical motif here and there, a cheeky transparency on certain dresses, worn by the sublime Becca Horn.

© LF / ViewsCo / Hit Bag

Fashion observers should definitely spend some times discovering the talent of Huishan Zhang. You can also read Amber Atherton analysis, Emma’s one.

 

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Shopping Top French Brands #1

Every week or so, follow our editor slash pro-buyer VQ into the depths of the Internet to single out your best shots at stylish and promising french brands and designers. When it comes to contemporary fashion, we tend to overlook what Frenchies can do. Quite an error, shall we say? Here’s a first style why.

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Brooklyn We Go Hard Baholo Shirt – 88£

This shirt by young label BWGH is all about mixing the comfort of vintage denim to two eye-catching details: the very graphical indie patterns on the breast pockets and a very streetwear-inspired hoodie.

Etudes Locomotion red-dyed denim

Etudes Locomotion red-dyed denim – 87,5£

These red-dyed jeans by Parisian-New Yorker label Etudes is a must-have. The fabric is incredibly reliable and the dying technique is perfectly mastered. The cut is a perfect mix of vintage higher waist and contemporary fitted lower legs. Eagle eyes will spot the subtle two-colored waist, a signature move of the label since it was called Hixsept.

Veja Frenchtrotters High Top Sneakers

Veja Frenchtrotters High Top Sneakers – 140€

French sneaker-maker Veja teamed up with parisian concept-store Frenchtrotters to create this pure high top pair. All Veja materials are ecologically elaborated in Brasil, from cotton to leather and tint. This burgundy reference is dark enough to be elegant and stripped of any streewear feel. It matches the level of desirability of cult Common Projects, with a much easier price tag.

###Instagram us @vuquan if you shop the look or part of it!

korin avraham ya salam blog
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Korin Avraham from Ya Salam, fashion blogger in Tel Aviv

Fashion is like a great journey; from a place to another, people have different faces, moods, attitudes and dreams. We had a chance to discover Korin Avraham, who is the proud owner of Ya Salam fashion blog. Based in Tel Aviv, Korin shares with us her own fashion genesis. A family story, but also a deep attachment to Italian know-how.

Your blog is called “Ya Salam“: why this reference to an Arab word to say hello?

When I opened my blog I was thinking how should I call it?
I knew I want the name to reflect me… and a second later I experienced a colorful flashback of me as a four years old girl standing in my bedroom the night of my kindergarten graduation party. I was telling my mom that I’m not going to wear the dress and the Sandals she gave me and if she wanted me to go to the party she better get me the linen overall and my burgundy polish shoes because that was the outfit I felt like wearing!!! She tried telling me she doesn’t know where she put the overall and asked me to wear the other outfit and go to the party on time without making my entire family wait for me. I apologized and just said that the faster she will get me my outfit the faster we will all go. She left the room and came back with my outfit and after I put it on she said “ok Korin, now can we go?” I looked at all of my family members and saw that all of them were upset. I thought to my self: There is no way we are leaving to a party with this attitude. So I did my pose and said “now everybody say: YA SALAM!!

I will just explain that Ya Salam means “WOW” in Arabic and its a term that my dear amazing dad would say whenever I would wear something nice or say something smart.
So that’s it- they were all laughing, said YA SALAM and we all had a great night.
So that’s what I want my blog to be about: A good attitude is the first thing you have to wear no matter where you go, who you go with and what you wear!!!!

korin ya salam

What are your biggest achievements so far as a fashion blogger & stylist?

My biggest achievement was the production I made for Moschino when his team arrived to Tel Aviv as the Tel Aviv fashion week – guest of owner.

As a result I have been interviewed to an Italian online magazine and have been invited to the fashion show that will take place at the Milan fashion week.

I also have been given a regular slot on ‘The Lounge’ show on IDC Radio – an international Radio.

© Kara Bieber, Make up by Sara Rutstein, Styling by Ya Salam

© Kara Bieber, Make up by Sara Rutstein, Styling by Ya Salam

 

Tel Aviv is a very sought place these days: would you define an Israelian fashion identity?

The fashion scene in Israel is, like the country, very young and is still at a curious stage without a clear identity.

The main fashion scene in Israel is based in Tel Aviv as most designers are located here, and there are lots of vintage stores here as well.

The style is eclectic and has an oriental flavor along with modern and western motifs, as you will find an urban colorful designs next to vintage influence and interesting and fun accessories world.

If we want to better know the fashion scene in Israel, where shall we go and which sites shall we visit?

Sheinkin st, Flee market on Jaffa, art and crafts market on Nachlat Binyamin st., the vintage market on Dizingoff square, Dizingoff st., Neve Tzedek, Mitcham Hatachana.

What can we wish you?

To keep love for what I’m doing and to keep doing what I love!

Hermès x Comme des Garçons
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Hermès + Comme des Garçons = Comme des Carrés

We just spotted in our highly desirable luxury newsletter from Whitewall Magazine this incredible collaboration between the legendary french house of silk “carrés” (for squares) and the pionneering japanese designer Rei Kawakubo of cult label Comme des Garçons. The result is a subtly contemporary pattern mixing pop-esque discs of black & white and a new balance of shapes and volumes. “Rei Kawakubo has stamped her vision on the Hermès scarf. With rigour, precision, energy and salience,” – says Bali Barrett, Hermès’ women’s artistic director.

Hermès x Comme des Garçons

Hermès x Comme des Garçons

Craig Landale Menswear Style
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Craig Landale, Menswear Style, on British fashion identity: an inheritance of Savile Row

There are men in fashion who’ve got the style with their outfits but also thanks to the passion they share online. We had a chance to meet Craig Landale, British Fashion blogger, owner of the brilliant Menswear Style , just before London Fashion Week. If you look for daily inspirations, dive into his blog: it’s a goldmine for trendsetters.

Hi Craig! So you’ve launched Menswear Style last year: what are the biggest achievements so far?

It’s been a very busy time since setting up Menswear Style in April 2012. We attended the ‘London Collections: Men’ as an accredited blogger twice, attended the British Fashion Awards and we’ve featured in Shortlist Magazine 4 times so far. Being added to the British Fashion Council blog forum was a big milestone for us and we’ve collaborated with a few brands on website features such as Burton, Supremebeing and Menlook

There’s a certain British identity when it comes to fashion: how would you define it?

British fashion to me seems to be very practical. We have to be practical because of our weather. Lots of layers and lots of accessories. We have an eye for quality and tailoring too due to the history of Savile Row and great historic style icons.

There’s a strong focus on London in media: are there other places that fashion lovers should watch to better understand Great Britain?

London is great because it is where trends happen. All the fashion houses are here and the majority of fashion brand HQ’s are here. London is like the whole world squeezed into a city so there are styles and brands being worn from all over the world. This results in a very unique London style. However other areas of England we’d suggest is the countryside fashion due to heritage style being on trend. You’ll find wax jackets, tweed, checked blazers, cords and leather boots for inspiration.

Thank you Craig! You can follow Menswear Style on Facebook, Twitter or Pinterest.

Cara Delevingne for TOPSHOP Fashion Week show
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TOPSHOP Unique, Autumn Winter 2013. Concrete dreams.

We were really expecting this Topshop Unique show. Because it was hosted at Tate Modern, in a very mystic dome. And because Topshop is probably one of the most important intermediaries when it comes to transforming the fashion hype to the high-street. Fashion needs to be taught, and Topshop never forgets how popular its brand and shops need to be.

Let’s talk about pop then; the collection we’ve seen today is a mash-up between iconic British work wear pieces and the integration of 90s pop-culture: sinusoidal patterns, half-baroque motifs, disco party girls.As Topshop explains: “prints, based on traditional British carpets and Victorian pub wallpapers, are digitized, super-sized and fused onto knits and bonded cloths“. It smells like London spirit.

© Laurent Francois

A modern vision of what female power is has been presented: a girl who can also wear a 24h bag; a girl who can be sexy with pants; a girl who’s aware of Asian cultures. Mimi Xu was playing Mélanie Pain’s cover of Girls and Boys. And we were probably falling in love again.

© Laurent Francois

And Cara Delevingne, this sweet-trash modern icon, was probably the right pick for Topshop. We were about to go to Brick Lane after with her, just so you know how coherent it was, while Jourdan Dunn was taking the lead with rest of the crowd.

© Laurent Francois

Well, we had some doubts on some items, which were probably more déjà-vu or less intense compared to the Unique statement. But after all, H&M pretends to be innovative with some outdated Maison Martin Margiela picks. At least, it spreads some standards to the general public and gives some inspirations for those of us who have a vintage wardrobe.

© Laurent Francois

But Topshop’s nostalgia hasn’t led us to melancholia; not at all. With concerns that dreams need to be fulfilled, we’ll take an asymmetric path to realize them. And that’s probably the best thing with Topshop, which explains its success: it doesn’t oversell ideas; it just talks about us.

© Laurent Francois

 

 

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Why catwalks are still JUST catwalks? #lfw

GOD DAMN IT

We’ve already been watching, discovering, many shows for the last few hours. Viva London Fashion Week!

And I can’t wait to attend Topshop’s show tomorrow. These guys know how to tease you.

But seriously; why catwalks are still just catwalks? Imagine: hundreds of eyes are gazing beautiful dresses, patterns, ideas, moving models; but most of the shows are still very binarian: a model enters the catwalk; she basically walks for 30 seconds; if you’re attending the show, you need to write very quickly, ’cause otherwise you’ll have to go online after; photographers are fighting for the best shots; and then, you can have a chat with your neighbors (or not) and go back to the office.

AND THAT’S ALL. (not for all designers thus: think about Louis Vuitton massive scenography for instance).

It’s absurd for emerging designers to keep investing in traditional shows.

People are more and more going online to discover your products, which means that most of the time, your lookbook is far better than your catwalk: you miss your climax!

If you’re competing during a Fashion Week, influencers are not going to remember you if you’re just an average show, as it’s so busy.

Art Direction does not end when your outfit is produced: it’s actually just starting. Think about Nanette Lepore ambitious show in New-York: whereas I think there’s a genius idea which is pervasively felt in her collection, not so many people talked about her in media. Why? Because the show was not that original compared to the statement.

In New-York, Rodarte imagined an original path for their models:

© Rodarte Show (source: Bureau Betak)

It’s not that crazy in pictures (so wouldn’t it be time to imagine new ways fashion photographers shoot catwalks?) but the mood was terrific.

My bet is that in the coming years, models won’t have to learn how to walk but how to embody complex characters. That’s probably why everybody’s on Cara Delevingne these days: she has something to share before, during and after her shows.

Just to say.

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Watch London Fashion Week LIVE right here

London Fashion Week has just begun! Thanks to Righster, you can watch 21 shows from Somerset House LIVE right here.

Here’s the schedule:

Friday 15th February
10am Zoe Jordan
11am Bora Asku
1pm KTZ
2pm Felder Felder
4pm Jean-Pierre Braganza
5pm PPQ
8pm Central St Martins MA

Saturday 16th February
9am DAKS
12pm Jasper Conran
2pm John Rocha
4pm Todd Lynn
6pm Issa London
8pm David Koma

Sunday 17th February
8:30 pm Marios Schwab

Monday 18th February
11am Michael Van Der Ham
5pm OSMAN

Tuesday 19th February
12pm Emilio de la Morena
2pm Ashish
3pm Maria Grachvogel
5pm Aminika Wilmont
6pm Haizhen Wang

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The Broken Arm : new top parisian concept store

We’ve been following these people for a while… From the beginning, actually. When De Jeunes Gens Modernes launched in 2009, we believed this collective of sharp, curious and intelligent fashion and culture minds would go very far. While American geniuses Humberto Leon & Carol Lim – founders of cult store and label Opening Ceremony – moved a few months ago to Paris to coolify crumbling legend Kenzo, these discreet professionals made their way into the address book of the best talents around the world. Focusing attention on a carefully curated feed of news dedicated to exclusive and über-cool labels and artists on their blog, De Jeunes Gens Modernes would definitely become an indispensable hub of contemporary fashion.

Emerging brands were always what made the edge of still running DJGM. But today, part of the team has taken it to another level. With lots of love as proven on their Facebook wall from belgian pionneers Hunting & Collecting, Guillaume, Romain & Anaïs have launched The Broken Arm: a delicate contemporary fashion retailer dedicated to exciting labels and a sleek and sophisticated understated metropolitan (yup altogether) lifestyle. The Broken Arm is seated in the hot neighbourhood of NoMa (North Marais), where creative labs such as art library slash gallery Ofr or showroom slash gallery Ra also have their address.

Adepts of 3.1 Philip Lim, Carven, Cédric Charlier, Jacquemus, Kenzo (what were we saying about the young guns?), Patrik Ervell, Raf Simons… will find a whole new offer there. It was expected that an exploratory modern retailer would settle in Paris, but how better could it be than curated by this experimented team of passionate scouts and analysts?

Here are some premiere pics of the incredible space opened at 12 rue Perrée, Paris III.

Elise Bourque lookbook
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Elise Bourque: when a simple gal transforms street & digital inspirations into fashion

We’ve discovered a great and energetic young fashion designer, Elise Bourque. While everybody was focusing on New York Fashion Week, there’s a growing and interesting scene in Canada. The fashion revolution may also start from the snow and from the caribous.

Hi Elise! Your creations were highlighted during the recent Ottawa Fashion Week: how would you define the Canadian fashion touch?

We all know how cold it can get here in Canada! Like, no kidding.  My focus this season was to create awesome winter jackets. Big hoods with the fur, nice Melton wool fabrics that are warm for our chilly winters and look dressy at the same time…A cozy feeling of wearing a fashionable winter jacket! I can picture in my mind a woman skating on the Rideau Canal wearing one of my winter coats, that would be magical =)

Your presentation starts with: “believe in the beauty of your dreams“. What are your dreams, Elise? :)

I am a very simple gal, and this may sound cheesy but, being happy and successful are my biggest dreams, and looking good in amazing clothes can make a girl very happy and confident.

Elise Bourque lookbook 2

Who are the designers who inspire you?

I am not really inspired by other designers… I’m mostly inspired by people, a look or a street style, but if I would have to say a name it would be Alexander Wang, for his success and his great sense of style.

Your creations seem to have deep “street”-style roots: what’s your creative process?

It mostly starts with looking through fashion blogs, I can be inspired by a color, a collar , just a look or a feeling. Afterwards, I have to ask myself; would I wear that? Would the elisebourque girl wear this? if yes, I start sketching and then I go on with the pattern making and the sewing.

You use to blog a lot on fashion: did it help for your work?

Yes, it was a good reference to give to people who asked about my designs. Also to get the public’s feedback, which is, to my mind, one of the most important indicators. It also helped me to write posts to showcase every new outfit I would make, every post had its own story, that was one of the things I loved the most about blogging, telling a story.

Where can we follow you and order your collections?

You can follow me through instagram, twitter or www.elisebourque.com. (website soon to come). For ordering, you will be able to do so in the winter of 2013-2014.